Corrective Contouring on Different Face Shapes

Experts believe that the oval shaped face is the most perfect one. An oval face is considered the most crucial characteristic of a classic beauty. Unfortunately all women cannot and do not possess this kind of facial shape and structure. There are a total of seven different face shapes identified by makeup professionals.

Identifying your face shape is critical for effective and flawless makeup. This knowledge helps you pick the right cosmetics so that you can use them on the right parts of your face to enhance

the overall look. It helps you bring your facial shape and structure as close to the definition of perfection as possible.

How to Determine Your Face Shape

Determining your face shape plays a very important part as to how you apply your makeup. Not everyone has the same face shape and that’s why it is important for you to know your face shape so that you can enhance all your beautiful features while you hide the not-so-good ones.

What you will need:

Clean Mirror
Red lipstick

Steps:

Place the mirror in front of you.
Take your red lipstick and make dots along your hairline, the sides of your temples, your cheekbones, jaw line and chin.
Connect the dots with each other.
Compare it to the 7 face shapes and see what face shape you have.

Different Face Shapes and their Characteristics

You need to understand different face shapes and their characteristics so that you can:

Identify your own facial shape or a client’s
Understand how it differs from the ideal oval shape
Learn how to correct the features to enhance looks

Let’s start with the seven basic shapes:

Oval Face Shape

The oval face is considered to be the best proportioned face shape and it has perfect balance. In simple terms, you could compare the oval face to an egg. The lower part of the face is narrower and the hairline is rounded and wider. The middle of the face is its widest part.

To summarize this face shape:

Narrow forehead
Small jaw line
Accentuated cheekbones

Long Face Shape

The long face is also called the oblong or rectangle face. The hairline, middle part as well as the lower part of the face is all more or less equal in width. The hairline may be horizontal rather than curved, stretching from temple to temple. The length of this face shape is greater than its width.

To summarize this face shape:

High forehead
High cheekbones
Long chin
Small face

Square Face Shape

Very similar to the long or rectangle face shape, this face shape is characterized by a squared jaw and hair line. The main difference between the oblong face shape and square face shape is that the length and width of this face shape are nearly equal.

To summarize this:

Wide forehead, cheeks and jaw line

Round Face Shape

A rounded jaw line and hairline characterize the round face shape. The length and width of this shape are almost equal. The round face is not a sign of chubby or flabby cheeks. In effect, slim women may have a round face shape as the facial shape has nothing to do with body weight.

To summarize this:

Round hairline, jaw line and cheeks (which cannot be seen)
Sometimes a person with this face shape may have a double chin

Heart Face Shape

This facial shape is also described as the inverted triangle shape. The upper most part of the face is the widest part. The lowermost part is the narrowest. The chin is pointed rather than squared or rounded. The hairline may run almost straight, from temple to temple and gives the face the overall look of a triangle turned upside down. But, for the true heart shaped face, the hairline has a widow’s peak.

To summarize this:

Heart shaped hairline
Wide cheeks
Small face
Sharp chin

Diamond Face Shape

Narrow chin and hairline give this face shape a distinct diamond like appearance. The middle zone (cheekbones) is the widest part of the diamond shaped face structure. The forehead is less pronounced and gradually reduces in width to form a narrow and pointed chin. The lowermost and uppermost parts of the face are equal here.

To summarize this:

The most prominent feature is the cheekbones
The cheekbones are strong and well defined
The forehead is thinner than the cheekbones but wider than the chin

Pear Face Shape

Also described as the trapezoid shape or triangle shape face, this kind of face is widest at the lowermost point, the chin. The jaw line may be rounded. The hairline is the narrowest part of this face shape. This is a very uncommon face shape.

To summarize this:

Small forehead
Wide cheekbones
Strong jaw line

Some experts add an eighth face shape to this list- the hexagonal one. The hexagonal face is an angular version of the oval face. At the temples, the jaw line and cheekbones, you will see prominent angles. The middle zone is the widest part of this face. Due to the angles, this face shape appears to be hexagonal (with six sides).

Corrective Contouring for Different Face Shapes

The objective of corrective contouring is to make each face shape appear as similar to the ideal oval shape as possible. Those women who have an oval shaped face do not need contouring. This is how you contour the other face shapes to achieve your goal. In these videos, I will first demonstrate on sketches how to do corrective contouring on different face shapes. At the end, I will do an actual demonstration on a model with a square face shape.

The following items from our Makeup Kit will be used:

127 Blush Brush
202 Large Shader Brush
127 Blush brush
XL Face and Body Bronzer
Tissues
10 Color Blush Palette- bright and Neutral
6 Color Pressed Powder Palette
10 Color Eye Shadow Palette- Neutral

When performing this on a client you will use the 127 Blush Brush but for the sake of the sketches I will use the 202 Large Shader Brush to illustrate the corrective contouring techniques because the 127 Blush Brush is too large for the sketches.

Corrective Contouring for the Long Face Shape

For the oblong or rectangle or long face, the objective is to make the longest portions appear shorter or wider. Shadowing helps soften the angles of your face and adds definition where you need it. Be generous with the blush on the apples of your cheeks, especially the bottom parts. This makes your face look rounder.

Shading/contouring at the top of the cheekbones and around the jaw line (the chin) helps subdue the angles and gives your face a softer and more rounded shape. Apply a highlighting color just underneath your cheekbones. To contour you can use foundation/powder, which is a shade or two darker than the skin tone, to soften the angles of your face. The chin and forehead are two areas where contouring will help give the appearance of a shorter face shape.

Step 1: Dip your 127 Blush Brush into a blush/bronzer color that is one shade darker than your client’s skin tone and apply this onto her cheekbones. This will “push” back the high cheekbones and bring them more into balance with the rest of her face. Do the same around her jaw line.

Step 2: Wipe your 127 Blush Brush with a tissue.

Step 3: Take your blush brush and dip it into a white, beige or cream eye shadow color. Do highlighting just underneath her cheekbones

Step 4: Wipe your blush brush with a tissue.

Step 5: Finally, take your 127 Blush Brush and dip it into a powder that is one to two shades darker than your client’s skin tone. This you must apply around her hairline and at her chin. This will help give the appearance of a shorter face. * You may also use the 125 Foundation Brush and do shading around these areas if you find that it works better for you.

Corrective Contouring for the Round Face Shape

The round face has the curves in the right places. The highlighting (using foundation/powder/eye shadow a shade or two lighter than your skin tone) goes on your chin and forehead while the contouring goes on the sides of the face.

You need to add angles to this face shape to make it similar to the oval shape. Go light with the blush on the apples of your cheeks. Try a ‘V’ shaped application on your cheeks and blend into the temples to give your face a more angular look. Use a bronzer to enhance the cheekbones keeping the stroke horizontal across the sides of your face. If you use a highlighter, add a touch under the brow bones and along the outer sides of your face to lengthen your facial shape.

Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and dip it into a lighter powder/eye shadow color. With this you will do highlighting on your client’s forehead and chin.

Step 2: Wipe your brush with a tissue.

Step 3: Take the same brush and dip it into a powder that is one to two shades darker than her skin tone. This color will then be applied at the sides of her face (temples and jaw line).

Step 4: Wipe the brush with a tissue.

Step 5: Dip this brush into a light eye shadow color and do highlighting onto her cheeks by making a “v” shape application. Take this further and blend it into her temples. This will give her face a more angular look.

Step 6: Wipe the brush with a tissue.

Step 7: Finally, use the same brush and apply a bronzer just underneath her cheekbones, but do it in a horizontal application.

Corrective Contouring for the Heart (Inverted Triangle) Face Shape

The objective is to make the upper part of the face narrower and give it a more rounded appearance. This facial shape is quite angular. The angles of the forehead need to be softened and so do the cheekbones. Contouring does this job very effectively. The chin should be contoured so that the broad forehead is balanced out perfectly. Apply highlighter at the sides of your jaw line.

Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and apply a darker shade of powder around the sides of your client’s hairline and at the chin. This will make her forehead appear more in balance with the rest of her face.

Step 2: Wipe the brush clean with a tissue.

Step 3: Apply a highlighter such as an eye shadow that is one shade lighter, just underneath her cheekbones and also at the sides of her jaw line.

Step 4: Wipe the brush clean with a tissue.

Step 5: Finally, apply a blush/bronzer color onto her cheekbones.

Corrective Contouring for the Diamond Face Shape

The diamond shaped face needs to be softened and balanced out. Contour the uppermost and the lowermost parts of the face to subdue the harsh angles of this facial shape. This includes the chin and forehead (middle) areas in particular. Highlights go on the sides of the forehead and also the jaw to make the face more oval in appearance. Be generous with the blush over the apples of your cheeks. Blend a darker color towards the outside of the cheek bones and up to the outer corner of the eye. This narrows down the widest part of your face- the middle part.

Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and dip it into a darker powder color. Do contouring in the middle of your client’s hairline and also at the chin. This will subdue all the harsh angles of her face.

Step 2: Wipe your brush with a clean tissue.

Step 3: Do highlighting at the sides of her jaw line and also at the sides of her temples. This will make the face more oval in appearance.

Step 4: Wipe your brush with a clean tissue.

Step 5: Finally, apply a darker color blush/bronzer towards the outside of the cheekbones and up to the outer corner of her eyes. This narrows down the widest part of her face, which is the middle part.

Corrective Contouring for the Pear (Trapezoid/Triangle) Face Shape

For the Pear face, the objective is to bring the widest areas into proportion with the rest of the face.
The blush goes on the apples of your cheeks with focus on the bottom and center. This gives a more rounded look to your triangle shaped face. A light dusting of darker shadow along the jaw line and highlighter at the temples makes these areas more prominent and balances out the wider middle portion of your face. Enhancing the eye brows is also a good way to create more balance.

In the eighth facial shape, the hexagonal shape, the angles at the temples and jaw line differentiate this face from the ideal oval one. A softening of these harsher lines serves to enhance this facial shape’s appearance.

Contouring is effective only when the different shades you use to highlight and subdue the facial angles are blended in perfectly. Otherwise you could end up with patches over your faces that are in visibly different shades. Look at your face closely in good light after you have completed your contouring to avoid this.

Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and dip it into a white, cream or beige eye shadow. This will be applied at the sides of your client’s forehead (temples).

Step 2: Wipe your brush clean with a tissue.

Step 3: Take the same brush and apply a darker color of eye shadow around her jaw line.

Step 4: Finally, apply blush to the apples of her cheeks and use a highlighting color on the bottom and center of her cheeks.

Corrective Contouring for the Square Face Shape

The objective is to make this facial shape appear more rounded. The upper zone and lower zone need to be rounded and narrowed down. The angles of the face need to be softened and also elongated (lengthened) to make it similar to the oval face.

Highlights on the chin and forehead combined with contours on the jaw and sides of the forehead achieve this effect. The use of bronzer to the temples and jaw line also has the effect of downplaying harsh angles while elongating the facial structure.

Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and dip it into a white, cream or beige eye shadow. Apply this color on your client’s chin and forehead.

Step 3: Wipe your brush with a tissue.

Step 4: Take the same brush and do shading/contouring at the sides of her jaw line and at the sides of her forehead (temples). You can either use a darker powder/bronzer color to do this.

Step 5: Finally, if the client doesn’t have visible cheekbones and would like to make it more visible, then you can apply a highlighting color onto them to bring them forward. Otherwise it is advisable to use a bronzing color on your cheekbones.