Corrective Contouring on Different Cheekbones
Corrective Contouring on Different Cheekbones
Your cheekbones play a very crucial role in deciding the shape of your face. After your eyes and lips, your cheekbones are the most defining feature of your face, and need to be played up using makeup to get that perfectly sculpted look. Like all other features on your face, your cheekbones too fight the onslaught of age and weight.
Corrective contouring emerges as a viable and practical solution to get the perfect cheekbones that you need as opposed to corrective surgery and cheek implants. Put simply, corrective contouring is a kind of advanced makeup that works to highlight and bring forward the defining areas on your face, especially your cheekbones, while shadowing other areas that are unflattering.
Such kind of contouring offers your face a flattering new shape and dimension.
Locating the area to be contoured
Since your cheeks constitute a large part of your face, it can be tricky to locate the portion that needs to be contoured. To find this spot, simply place the tip of your index finger on the tragus part of your ear. If you don’t know what part that is, then you can do two things. First, you can try making a fish face and suck your cheeks in, or second you can make a 45° angle between your lips and your ear. When you keep your finger inclined at such an angle you can feel your cheek bones above your fingers. This then is the area that needs to be contoured or shaded.What you’ll need
While most people use different cosmetics to contour and chisel their cheeks, there are a couple of cosmetics that are a must. To begin with, a good quality foundation, a highlighter, blush, bronze r, and of course, a flattering powder palette that suits your skin's undertone is a must. Along with this, you will need some sturdy makeup brushes.
Choosing and applying powder for contouring
Shades of brown powder work the best on most cheeks, especially the ones with grey undertones. Once you have chosen your shade of powder, you need to use a good quality angle powder brush and sweep it across your color palette. Next, angle your brush in such a way that it brushes against the highest part of your cheek where your finger was earlier positioned.Keeping in mind the 45° angle you had made earlier, firstly move the brush upwards in a straight line. Ensure that the brush movements are smooth and the color simply glides on your cheeks. Continue doing this till you reach the area at the end of your eyebrow. Take the same brush and make circular movements over the line that you have drawn. This technique ensures that the darkest shade of the color is near your eyes and then gets lighter as you move downwards.
However, if you think that the color has become too dark, dust some translucent powder on it to lighten it. Another quick way to do this is to take your foundation sponge and gently “sweep” over the dark area.
Remember to factor in the time of day when you are stepping out. This is crucial because day time contouring needs to be more subtle and detailed, as the natural light is bound to reflect off it. On the contrary, contouring your cheekbones for a night event is easier as dull and dim light always flatters contoured cheeks.
For most women, cheek contouring means sucking in your cheeks and applying a darker shade of the contouring powder to the hollows of your cheeks, and a highlighter on the top of the cheekbones. They dust some blush or powder on it to ensure their makeup stays in place. While there is nothing wrong in contouring cheeks this way, you must know that there are different kinds of cheekbones, and each kind requires a different corrective contouring technique.
The following items from our Makeup Kit will be used in these videos:
- 127 Blush Brush
- XL Face and Body Bronzer
- 10 Color Blush Palette- neutral
- Tissues
Full cheeks
People with round faces are generally known to have full (not always visible) cheeks, which lend them an air of looking younger for longer. A truly round face is known to have a rounded chin and a short fairly wide forehead. To make such a face appear slightly oval, you must draw attention and highlight your forehead and the area underneath your eyes that sits just on top of your cheekbones. This helps draw attention to the center of your face. Here, you can use shading on your cheeks and jaw line by using a bronze shade powder or cream foundation, which is likely to suit your skin tone.Corrective Contouring on Full Cheeks
The aim here is to make the cheeks appear not so full or round. People with round faces tend to have full cheeks.Step 1: Take your index finger and determine where your client’s cheekbones are.To find this spot, simply place the tip of your index finger on the tragus part of your ear. If you don’t know what part that is, then you can do two things. First, you can try making a fish face and suck your cheeks in, or second you can make a 45° angle between your lips and your ear. When you keep your finger inclined at such an angle you can feel your cheek bones above your fingers. This then is the area that needs to be contoured or shaded.
Step 2: Take your 127 Blush Brush and apply a dark shade of powder/bronzer/blush just underneath her natural cheekbones.
Step 3: Wipe your brush with a clean tissue
Step 4: Finally, take the same brush and dip it into a light cream, beige or white eye shadow color. Apply this color just above her natural cheekbones.
By doing this, you will create the illusion that she has nice accentuated cheekbones.
High cheekbones
Generally, women with long faces have high cheekbones matched with a deep forehead and a strong sharp chin. Such women should never highlight their cheekbones, as it would only serve to make their face appear even longer. You may however apply a highlighting color just underneath your cheekbones. The goal is to reduce the appearance of its length. Such women should do shading on their cheekbones by simply dusting some blush on the apple of their cheeks. This one trick can help to both widen and shorten the face. When you apply blush on high cheekbones, you must start by applying it closer to the apple of your cheeks, but brush outwards across the face in confident sweeps.
Corrective Contouring on High Cheekbones
Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and apply a darker shade of bronzer/blush onto your client’s cheekbones. The dark color will create the illusion that she does not have such high cheekbones.
Step 2: Wipe your brush with a clean tissue.
Step 3: Then, take the same brush and apply a light eye shadow color just underneath her cheekbones.
Wide cheeks
Women with pear shaped faces have wide cheeks and a narrow forehead. In such cases, to create the illusion of a well-balanced face, you must highlight your forehead and the area underneath the eyes and on top of the cheekbones. Here, both the jaw line and the cheekbones need to be contoured with a blush in order to minimize and reduce their width. The aim here is to narrow the cheekbones and by achieving this, you must apply the blush/bronzer closer to your nose area.Women with square faces also face the same problem of having wide cheeks. Therefore, such women also need to follow the same advice of highlighting their foreheads and the crucial area just on top of the cheekbones to take away attention from the ‘square ness’ of their cheeks and jaw line. For such women, another good contouring trick is to apply blush on the apple of the cheeks alone.
Corrective Contouring on Wide Cheeks
The aim here is to make your cheeks appear narrower than they really are.Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and apply a highlighting color on your client’s forehead and also just underneath her eyes.
Step 2: Wipe your brush with a clean tissue.
Step 3: Then take the same brush and apply a bronzer onto her cheekbones but apply this color closer to the nose area. Apply the same color at the sides of the jaw line as well. This helps to minimize and reduce their width.
*You may also want to apply a blush color to the apples of the cheeks as this will provide rosy, glowing cheeks.
Corrective Contouring on Narrow Face and Cheeks
Step 1: Take your 127 Blush Brush and apply a highlighting color at the top of your client’s cheekbones. Step 2: Wipe your brush with a clean tissue.
Step 3: Then, take the same brush and also apply a bronzer on her cheekbones but right next to her nose. By doing this, it will broaden your client’s cheeks and make it look less narrow.
Things to remember
- First, investing in good quality branded makeup products is a must to achieve the desired facial contouring you need. This is because poor quality cosmetics often look different in the palette and then how it reflects on the face.
- Invest in good quality brushes. Natural hair brushes are the best option to go for. Also keep a facial sponge handy for blending.
- The key to achieving good corrective contouring lies in brush strokes. While applying contouring powder, you must ensure that there is not too much powder on the brush as once on your face, it is difficult to remove it without messing up your makeup. The best solution is to dab your brush in the contouring powder, and gently tap it against the color palette or your hand before applying it on your face.
- Irrespective of which way, upwards or downwards you move your brush, your strokes have to be absolutely soft and smooth, as the best cheek contouring can be achieved only if the chosen color glides on to your cheeks giving them a natural glow. The brush must always be held be at a 45° angle and be used in light, circular movements across your cheeks. Should you hold the brush hard or apply too much pressure it would adversely affect the end result.
- Contouring makeup is available in different textures, but makeup experts all over the world generally prefer to use a powder version of it as it mixes and matches well with base makeup like foundation and concealer. It also blends well with any and all textures of complementary makeup. It is particularly good for amateurs trying corrective contouring for the first time.
- Lastly, it is always a good idea to dust some translucent powder on your whole face, after you have achieved your look. This ensures that your contoured makeup stays in place, despite sweating, to ensure great and sculpted cheeks all day long.
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